The Bitch Ditch

When you start shopping for a new home, you may encounter some words and terms with which you are unfamiliar. The following glossary will help you to be a better informed shopper.

Adjustable Rate Mortgage (ARM) - A loan whose interest rate is adjusted according to movements in the financial market.

Amortization - A payment plan by which a borrower reduces a debt gradually through monthly payments of principal and interest.

Annual Percentage Rate (APR) - The annual cost off credit over the life of a loan, including interest, service charges, points, loan fees, mortgage insurance, and other items.

Appraisal - An evaluation to determine what a piece of property would sell for in the marketplace.

Appreciation - The increase in the value of a property.

Assessment - A tax levied on a property or a value placed on the worth of property by a taxing authority.

Assumption - A transaction allowing the buyer of a home to assume responsibility for an existing loan on the home instead of getting a new loan.

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Be sure to read Part II of this article at:

http://www.houseplancentral.com/articles.php?id=20

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About the author:

Mark Mathis is a building designer and publisher of several stock house plan websites and informational resources including http://www.HousePlanCentral.com,
http://www.HousePlanGallery.com, and http://www.moneytalks-bswalks.com. Be sure to visit each site and subscribe to our eNewsletters to receive special offers, promotions, and subscriber-only features.

Copyright © 2005 Tammy Clayton

“I don’t want any weeds to have to deal with.”

The infamous statement uttered by millions. That is a pretty tall order to attempt to fill. Over the years, I have discovered that many people believe the fallacy that rock mulch over plastic or landscape cloth will render their planting free of weeds forever and ever. Covering up the soil equals no weeds?

In truth this is an absolutely not possible. After fighting weeds on hundreds of acres over decades of weeks, I can assure you it is just not possible. Nothing is sure in life but weeds and taxes. It is best to Accept the fact that one will have to deal with them after a while.

That plastic will begin to deteriorate and poke up through the mulch looking very unsightly. Don’t try to remove it after a few years either, it will fall all apart and be partly under the dirt and partly stuck in the root systems of the maturing shrubs. You’ll not be able to till up parts of the bed for a new look without angst over the rototiller being all bound up with strips of plastic and rocks wedged tightly between the tines.

Landscape plastic will only delay the weeds and cause another series of problems. It is commonly known that plastic repels water. That little hole left in the plastic sheeting around the base of your shrub or tree is not going to allow enough water to pass through to the roots at all. The fuller the leaf canopy, the less water will drip down through to the center instead the majority of the moisture will run off around the drip line. Plastic does not breathe either and healthy roots need air along with their water for plants to be healthy and flourish.

Stone mulch will either make the roots hotter or colder, depending on the weather as stone radiates heat and cold. The reason for mulch to be applied is to insulate the root system from extremes and help retain moisture longer to promote the health of the plants. Those plants that need air to the roots will not thrive under plastic and stone where insufficient air makes them weak and sickly.

While stone may look good to some it is very costly and dirt will still collect on the top of the weed barrier. As soon as things start going to seed around the protected area, there will be weeds everywhere in the stone rooting into that thin layer of deposited soil on top of the plastic. It is inevitable that weed roots beneath that plastic will creep around under it searching for an escape from the dark. These undercover and unwanted roots will never be found to eradicate, making them a constant problem to try and get rid of.

Landscape cloth is better in that it allows consistent moisture and some airflow to roots, but it does let weeds pop through the small holes in the weave. Once you have a weed rooted through the fabric, you will never be able to pull the roots. These contrived barriers in the long run will only make the installation more costly and a false belief that you will now be weed-free. Landscape cloth has beneficial applications in some situations and is best left to control erosion and not weeds.

If you simply must have mulch, the best choice for your shrub and tree beds is shredded hardwood or cedar bark mulch. Shredded bark mulches are fuzzy along the edges causing them to mat down and knit together after a good rain to stop erosion of loose soil to a great extent. Wood mulch encourages bugs to take up residence in it as deteriorating wood is their natural habitat. This will add the cost and need to spray chemicals on the mulch to control bugs that would never have moved in plain soil. Many is the horticultural professional who will not apply mulch to their planting beds for several reasons beginning with the insects it attracts. Secondly, they are aware that over time wood mulch decomposes to be soil again, thereby raising the soil level around the plants in the bed (causing future health problems with plants such as trees). Thirdly, because it makes it more difficult to weed the bed.

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For great Gardening tips and articles, visit:
http://www.LostInTheFlowers.com

About the Author

Raised by a highly respected & successful landscape contractor in the metro Detroit area, Clayton wanted a career in anything but landscaping! Now an award-winning landscape designer, Clayton runs Flowerville Farms, a mail-order nursery in Michigan. Read more at LostInTheFlowers.com.

Flower bulbs need a good, long, winter’s sleep. Like some people we know, if they wake up before they are fully rested they get kind of cranky, and then they don’t bloom well at all.

Actually what happens is during a mild winter, the soil stays too warm and the bulbs begin to come out of dormancy early. They start to grow, and once the tips emerge above the soil line, they are subject to freezing if the temperatures dip back down below freezing. And that’s usually what happens. After the bulbs have emerged, they freeze and then don’t bloom at all, or if they do it’s a very sad display.

Another reason this happens is because the bulbs are not planted deep enough. They may have been deep enough when you planted them, but as the soil goes through the freezing and thawing process, the bulbs can actually work their way up in the ground. One way to keep your flower bulbs sleeping longer, which will protect them from freezing, is to mulch the bed.

In the fall just apply a 3-4″ layer of well composted mulch. This layer of mulch will do a couple of things. It will maintain a higher moisture content in the soil, which is good as long as the soil isn’t too soggy. Well composted mulch also adds valuable organic matter to the planting bed. Organic matter makes a great natural fertilizer.

A 3-4″ layer of mulch also acts as an insulator. It will keep the soil from freezing for a while, which is good because you don’t want the bulbs going through a series of short cycles of freezing and thawing. Then when the temperatures drop below freezing and stay there for a while, the soil does eventually freeze. Then the mulch actually works in reverse and keeps the soil from thawing out too early. Keeping it in a frozen state is actually good because the bulbs remain dormant for a longer period of time.

When they finally do wake up it is spring time, and hopefully by the time they emerge from the ground the danger of a hard freeze is past and they will not be damaged. If you can keep them from freezing, they will flower beautifully. The extra organic matter will help to nourish the bulbs when they are done blooming, and the cycle starts all over again.

We also plant annual flowers in the same beds with our spring bulbs. By the time the danger of frost is past and it’s time to plant the annuals, the top of the bulbs have died back and are ready to be removed. The mulch that is added in the fall also helps to nourish the annual flowers, as well as improve the soil permanently. Any time you add well composted organic matter to your planting beds, you are bound to realize multiple benefits. The key words here are “well composted”. Fresh material is not good.

You are welcome to use this article on your website or In your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter.

With the planting season upon us, now is the perfect time to start your outdoor herb garden. Herbs come in different colors, flora, scents, textures and heights making them pleasing to all five of our senses. Before starting your outdoor herb garden, there are some things that you need to consider and keep in mind.

First of all, you have to consider how much space you have to plant. If you have just a small 3 ft x 3 ft plot, then you are going to have to narrow your herb choices considerably in comparison to someone who has a much larger plot. If you have a small plot or just want to add visual interest to a larger plot, consider planting some herbs in the ground and others in pots.

With hundreds of varieties of herbs available, it is best to think about how you want to use your herb garden. If your garden is more for show and to be pleasing to your sense of smell, then you can choose plants just by their scents. Some people like to combine different scents such as rosemary, basil and thyme whereas others choose to have a garden full of lavender. If you are going to use your plants for cooking, then you need to think about which plants would be most useful for you. For instance, Italian herb gardens typically contain basil, oregano and parsley.

Depending on the plant, you may be able to plant a lot of one herb close together or you might need to leave 6″ to 12″ between plants. The size of your plot greatly dictates how many plants you can have in your plot. There are some herbs that spread like crazy as they grow. Mint is an example of an herb with a mind of its own when it comes to growing. It is best to plant these kinds of herbs in their own pot to avoid having them take over your garden.

Make sure that your herb garden gets plenty of sun. Most herbs require sun for at least 6 hours a day. Your herbs will do best in soil that drains well as many herbs do best if they are not sitting in soaked soil all the time. In between days that it rains, it is best to just to sprinkle them lightly with the hose. If you go 4-5 days with no rain then it is a good idea to give them a good watering.

Many herbs are easy to grow and require little care other than weeding and a little water. Before starting your herb garden it is always best to do research to learn about different herbs and to make sure that their soil, watering and sun requirements will be met. You can find other good herb growing tips online. Although you can start herbs from seeds, it is much easier and less time consuming to go to a nursery and buy an herb plant. Whichever way you choose to start your herb garden, have fun and let your senses enjoy all of the colors, smells, textures and scents that come with them.

Germinating seeds hydroponically has several advantages over
using soil. Many common diseases can be avoided because the
hydroponic medium is clean while soil may contain fungus or
insects that can harm vulnerable seedlings. Root rot can also be
avoided by using a good hydroponic growing system.

The area where hydroponic growing really shines over using soil
is control of the growing environment. With hydroponics, the
gardener is no longer at the mercy of the soil’s nutrient or
water content. Every aspect of the plant’s growing conditions
can be controlled by the grower, not Mother Nature. This can be
a tremendous advantage for young seedlings because they will get
the proper nutrients right from the start of their life, leading
to much healthier plants in the long run.

Choosing a Growing Medium for Germinating Seeds

While germinating, seeds require both oxygen and water to
sprout. This means that your growing medium must provide
sufficient amounts of both to the seed or it will not germinate.
Porous mediums such as perlite, rockwool, or vermiculite will do
this along with having great drainage capabilities. Rockwool
cubes can be used for quick set up and easy transplanting as the
seeds sprout and grow into full-size plants. Simply place a
larger cube around the cube holding the plant. The roots will
expand and grow through both rockwool cubes, allowing your
medium to easily adapt to the size of your plant.

Perlite makes another good growing medium for germinating seeds
because its porosity allows for good drainage and oxygen
availability. Just be sure to use the gardening-grade perlite
rocks and not the finer grade masonry-quality powder. Plant your
seeds about a half to one full inch deep in the perlite medium
and recover them with a thin layer of perlite. The easiest way
to set up a seedling tray with perlite is to use a plastic tub
or similar container covered in black plastic to ensure that no
light will penetrate to the roots of your plants. Add a drain
hole about an inch from the container’s bottom to cycle your
nutrient solution through while keeping a minimum level of
solution available to the plants at all times.

Nutrients for Germinating Seeds

Many seeds contain nutrients within their shell to provide
initial nourishment to jumpstart the germination process.
However, this is not true for all species. Orchid seeds, for
example, contain very little nutrients, so be sure to research
your particular plant before setting up your garden. To avoid
stressing the seed at a vulnerable point, it is best to use a
medium that is pre-prepared with a low concentration of
nutrients. The first few initial waterings will give your seeds
a small dose of nutrients until it is ready to absorb more.
After a few days, switch to a regular nutrient solution in your
water, but keep it at a lower dose than normal until the seed
shows significant growth. Once the plants have developed strong,
healthy stalks, you can change them over to your normal feeding
and watering program and use your seedling tray for the next
batch of germinating seeds.